GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE - Last week the world was stunned by the sudden collapse of a factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh which killed 370 people - the factory’s owner is currently being held by police after he was accused of illegally adding 3 floors to the workplace structure.
Now, the true cost of cheap fashion is being realized by the public, there is a connection between bargain produce and workplace tragedies such as this. Over 900 people are still missing after the factory, where Primark have some of their clothes manufactured, tumbled into rubble; in protest, members of the British public have campaigned against cheap fashion by gathering outside Primark’s flagship store on Oxford Street.
A century ago, hand-me-downs were trendy. Not only was it financially practical to own a few key hand-me-down items of clothing – many of which once belonged to older siblings, parents or even grandparents – it was also a way of recycling fashionable items back into trend. Nothing was thrown out until it was worn out.
But now, many of us are charmed into what is the trend of the season, meaning the contents of our wardrobes alter in the blink of an eye. In fact, a survey by QVC UK found that the average British woman owns 22 garments she never wears, yet refuses to throw out any of them. British women also spend an estimated £2.5billion a year on 500 million items of clothing they never make use of. Men are almost as wasteful, owning an average of 19 items of clothing they never use.
The survey discovered that only 12% of us regularly clear out our closets, implying that the majority of the British public keep buying new items of clothing without getting rid of those they don’t use. With trends changing quicker than most of us can keep up with (or afford), it’s no wonder that cheap fashion seems such a popular option. But if you want to look good on a budget, who is suffering for your purse-friendly purchases? How do high street stores manage to keep their prices so affordable?
Laws vary from country to country; workers’ rights in the UK are not the same as those in the developing world. Executive director of the Alternative Movement for Resources and Freedom society (AMRF) reported that there are over “2.5 million garment workers in Bangladesh” alone. They work 13 hours a day for as little as £12 a month, the minimum wage in Bangladesh. With families to take care of, homes to maintain and food to buy, it’s understandable that many employees refuse to confront those in authority for fear of losing their jobs.
Furthermore, 54% of British shoppers feel guilty for wasting money on clothes; perhaps we simply can’t afford to buy ethically produced clothing? Perhaps not. A Cambridge University report shows the amount of clothes bought over a four-year period grew by one third, despite the harsh effects of the recession. It’s not just the shoppers – businesses have been hit hard, too. With so little cash flow, even companies like Marks and Spencer have outsourced their product manufacturing.
Factories in the developing world simply do not have the same health and safety standards that we are used to on our shores. The fact is, Western stores supplied by factories like the site in Dhaka should take responsibility for the production line of their goods. Instead, they take advantage of the lack of workers’ rights abroad and how crucial the fashion industry is to the economy in countries such as India.
Some companies are a little more moral in their manufacturing practices, H&M have taken a stand. They are aiming to produce 100% ethical clothing by 2020; last year, the company used more organic cotton than any other high street shop in the country. Hopefully, this bold move will encourage more shops to follow suit. Another example is Gap, children as young as 10 were found manufacturing clothing for Gap in Delhi. Despite Gap denying the allegations, they vowed to invest £98,000 into improving conditions for their workers in India.
Cheap fashion is not just a waste of fabric, and fuel; it can also cost lives. Investing in top-quality ethically-made clothes means you invest in more than just a reliable garment, you invest in the safety of workers. So next time you hit the high street, look out for fair trade fashion or visit a charity shop, and help put an end to the devastating cost of bargain attire.
(Marianne Calnan is a Bournemouth University student studying English, aspiring journalist, music and film enthusiast. Calnan writes for Urban Times where this article was first posted.)
-cw
CityWatch
Vol 11 Issue 37
Pub: May 7, 2013